Journal Excerpt 2

Today I write from the Eurostar train to Florence for our week there as somewhat of a class field trip. Walking to the Rome Center this morning from Trastevere, I was amazed by how interactive and happy people are so early in the morning. It seems as though people know I am foreign even when I wear European clothing and avoid speaking English - it is because I'm not seen greeting locals in the morning as I pass. I heard buongiornos and saw embraces and cheek-kisses all over the place in Trastevere. It is such a small town concept so strange to see in a place as big as Rome. Is is because the people are more friendly and interactive in the Italian culture, or does each sect of the city function as a small community? Or both? Either way, people should have been more grumpy. It was way too early. Good mornings don't start until at least 8:30.

Also, I forgot to mention witnessing my first pickpocketing. Well, I only really saw him get caught, and he didn't pick my pockets (I don't think), but it was on the crowded way home from the beach on Sunday. After it all happened, it seemed pretty obvious; he walked over between me and another man standing near me with a bag - which was really strange in retrospect because there was plenty of room elsewhere to stand - and just rode standing for a while. After a stop or two, he bent over to tie his shoe or something and must have grabbed something from the guy next to him. In all honesty, he could have stolen from someone else, but this seems most likely (he was good). A short bit later, he tried to jump off the train as the doors were shutting, but a good samaritain grabbed hold of his shirt; he refused to let go until the subway doors reopened, when he was able to jump out and stop him. By the time the whole process was over, there were about eight strangers altogether surrounding him, collectively interrogating him and probably ready to take him to the polizia. It was definitely a feel good story in action. And yes, my wallet was safely stowed for the whole deal.

Journal Excerpt 1

Today we ventured out into the Rome that you don't see in postcards, the places that give the city history and culture. I may just be in awe, having it be only the third day of the program, but I found beauty today in places I never knew I wanted to visit. Hopefully I will remember to go back with my camera. After the Jewish Ghetto, we walked along Teatro Marcello. Only Rome can perfectly fuse the old and the new the way those apartments sit upon the Colosseum-style architecture. Yet in construction, it's hard to believe that this almost destruction of history (okay, alteration) was welcomed with open arms. The situation seems comparable to the late 20th century addition to Suzzalo Library (who ever thought that was a good idea?), but not quite as ugly. It actually looks very nice now, but has it always?

The issues with Rome giving in to new styles and new architecture (hardly complaints in this city) soon subsided upon visiting Santa Sabina and Parco Savello. Built centuries before many of today's Roman wonders, the complex seems to be in a world of its own - even the viewpoint seems to defy physics as it extends from the peak of one of the southern hills of Rome. As you sit with arguably one of the best views of the city, it's hard not to imagine the chronology of a developing city below. It is amazing to find places that have remained so permanent as their surroundings have changed so much. Surely the viewpoint is a twentieth century tourist addition, especially since it perfectly faces St. Peter's, but the church reminds us of times when tourism was not even a defined word. The cats seem to respect that as they sunbathe between orange trees. With the quietness only giving in to the trickling of public water from a nearby fountain, it's nice to know not everywhere does life move at the speed of a Vespa on Via Garibaldi.